Traditional Vietnamese dresses: Guide to Ao dai & more

Contents

1. A glance at Ao dai – the traditional Vietnamese dress

Ao dai, though not officially recognized as the national costume of Vietnam, has long been regarded by Vietnamese people and international visitors as a symbol of the nation’s cultural essence. The term “Ao dai” has even been added to the Oxford Dictionary. It is defined as a traditional Vietnamese dress for women, featuring long front and back panels that fall to the ankles, worn over long trousers.

Ao dai stands out for its simplicity and elegance. It doesn’t require much time to wear and allows Vietnamese women to embody both grace and sophistication with ease. Beyond its presence in daily life, Ao dai has found its way into cinema, music, and art. It has evolved into a symbol that transcends generations and borders. Whether in Vietnam or abroad, this traditional Vietnamese dress remains a cherished part of the country’s identity.

Vietnam’s traditional dresses reflect the country’s identity (Source: Collected)

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2. Things to know about Ao dai – the traditional Vietnamese dress

2.1. Evolution

Ao dai has undergone significant transformations throughout Vietnamese history, with each era introducing new styles and variations:

• Ao giao linh (circa 1744): Ao giao linh, the earliest known form of Ao dai, was a loose-fitting garment made from four fabric panels. It reached the wearer’s ankles, had long sleeves, and featured slits on the sides. It was typically worn with a black skirt underneath and a fabric belt on the outside.
• Ao dai tu than (17th century): By the 17th century, Ao giao linh evolved into Ao dai tu than, which was designed for the working class, particularly farmers. This version of Ao dai was split into four parts, with the two front panels tied together for convenience. Typically dark in color, it was practical for laboring in the fields and handling daily tasks.
• Ao dai ngu than (King Gia Long era, 19th Century): In the 19th century, Ao dai ngu than was introduced. Designed to distinguish the noble class from commoners, it featured an additional fifth panel at the front, adding an extra layer of modesty. It was wide-fitting, had a high collar, and became a symbol of sophistication during the time.
• Ao dai Lemur (early 20th century): In the early 20th century, the traditional Vietnamese dress marked a significant shift towards modernity. It hugged the body more closely, with only two long panels extending to the ground. Ao dai Lemur was Europe-influenced, featuring elements such as a cinched waist, puffed sleeves, and a heart-shaped neckline.
• Ao dai Le Pho: Named after the designer Le Pho, this version was a more form-fitting adaptation of the traditional Ao dai. The shoulder slopes were raised, the panels extended to the floor.
• Ao dai Raglan (1960s): Created by Dung Tailor in Saigon, this traditional dress of Vietnamese became popular in the 1960s. Its defining feature was the 45-degree diagonal seam from the collar to the underarm, allowing for greater mobility and comfort. This form-fitting Ao dai fastened along the side with buttons, influencing the style of the modern Ao dai.
• Modern Ao dai (1970s – present): Over the years, Ao dai continues to evolve with new materials, styles, and designs. Despite these changes, this traditional Vietnamese dress remains a timeless symbol of grace, femininity, and modesty.

Vietnam’s traditional dresses have seen remarkable changes over time (Source: Collected)

2.2. Significance

Ao dai is more than just a traditional dress. It holds deep cultural meaning in Vietnam:

• Honoring the beauty of Vietnamese women: Ao dai represents not only the physical grace of Vietnamese women but also their inner qualities, including selflessness and fortitude.
• A symbol of heritage: The traditional Vietnamese dress is worn on a variety of occasions, from family ceremonies to professional, social, and diplomatic events. It is also seen in art performances, fashion shows, and beauty contests both domestically and internationally, underscoring its importance in cultural practices.
• Spreading Vietnamese culture worldwide: Ao dai helps promote Vietnamese traditions and values on the global stage, allowing people around the world to appreciate the cultural richness of Vietnam.

Each color of Ao dai also carries unique meanings:

• Gold was once reserved for royalty, often worn by kings and queens.
• Red is associated with luck and prosperity, often worn during Tet or weddings. 
• White signifies purity and innocence, often worn by high school students.
• Black is traditionally worn at funerals, reflecting solemnity and respect.

Among traditional Vietnamese clothes, Ao dai shines as a symbol of Vietnamese women‘s beauty (Source: Collected)

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3. Where to try and buy the traditional Vietnamese dress?

Here are places where you can experience the elegance of the traditional Vietnamese dress: 

• Tailor shops in Hoi An and Hanoi: The old quarters of Hoi An and Hanoi are famous for their tailor shops, where visitors can have a custom-made Ao dai. The tailors in these areas are known for their skilled craftsmanship, and they can create a traditional Vietnamese dress to fit your body within a day or two.
• Tailor shops in Ho Chi Minh City: In District 1 and District 3 in Ho Chi Minh City, you can find several tailor shops that specialize in making Ao dai. These shops offer high-quality materials and services.
• Markets for ready-made Ao dai and fabrics: If you prefer a ready-made Ao dai or want to purchase fabrics to have one tailored later, you can visit Dong Xuan Market in Hanoi or Ben Thanh Market in Ho Chi Minh City. These markets offer a wide selection of designs, from simple styles to more elaborate patterns.
• Silk villages: For those who are interested in authentic Vietnamese silk, visiting Van Phuc Silk Village near Hanoi or Hoi An Silk Village is an excellent choice. These villages are known for producing high-quality silk, which can be tailored into stunning traditional Vietnamese dresses.

Hanoi, Hoi An, and Ho Chi Minh City are popular destinations for getting a traditional Vietnamese dress (Source: Collected)

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4. Other traditional Vietnamese dresses that you may not know

4.1. Ao tu than – a four-part dress for Northern women

Ao tu than is a traditional Vietnamese dress that represents the beauty of Northern Vietnamese women from a bygone era. This dress bears similarities to the Ao dai version from the 17th century. It features two front panels and two back panels which symbolize grandparents. The inner bodice represents parents embracing their child. Today, Ao tu than is often worn during traditional performances and cultural festivals to honor the image of women from Vietnam’s past.

4.2. Ao ba ba – the Southern Vietnamese pajama

Another traditional dress of Vietnamese people in the southern countryside is Ao ba ba, worn by both men and women. This simple yet practical garment consists of a long-sleeved or short-sleeved top with a central collar and a row of buttons running down from the neck to the waist. Today, Ao ba ba is widely used in traditional performances and cultural festivals.

4.3. Dresses of ethnic minority groups

The traditional attire of ethnic Vietnamese people is rich in design. With harmonious patterns and diverse motifs, these garments are also practical for everyday activities, such as farming and traversing mountainous landscapes. Each minority group’s clothing reflects the characteristics of their locality.

The Hmong and Dao are known for their brightly colored outfits, which are often embellished with metal decorations. In contrast, the Thai and Muong opt for simpler designs that emphasize the contrast between their skirts and tops. The Tay and Nung wear indigo-dyed clothing that conveys a sense of modesty and gentleness, while the Lo Lo are recognized for their handmade traditional Vietnamese dresses. 

Some other traditional Vietnamese dresses (Source: Collected)

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Vietnam’s heritage is beautifully reflected in traditional Vietnamese dresses. From the iconic Ao dai to the intricate attire of ethnic minority groups, these garments embody the country’s identity. During your trip to Vietnam, don’t miss the chance to try on an Ao dai to fully appreciate the craftsmanship behind each piece.

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