Ong Bon Pagoda: Stand out in Saigon’s spiritual landscape

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Ong Bon Pagoda stands as a testament to the rich cultural heritage of Saigon, offering visitors a glimpse into centuries-old traditions and beliefs. In this article, we delve into the history and significance of this revered temple, exploring its architectural marvels and the surrounding attractions that enhance its allure.

Unveiling the beauty of Ong Bon Pagoda in Saigon’s Chinatown (Source: Collected)

1. Where is Ong Bon Pagoda? Who is worshipped there?

Ong Bon Pagoda, also known as Nhi Phu Temple or Nhi Phu Assembly Hall, is a religious institution located at 264 Hai Thuong Lan Ong Street, Ward 14, District 5, Ho Chi Minh City. 

Nhi Phu Temple is the worshiper of Ong Bon, also known as Chu Dat Quan, a Mandarin of the Yuan Dynasty (China) who was revered by the Chinese (of Hoa origin) in Ho Chi Minh City as Bon Dau Cong, the god who protects the land and people of the Cho Lon area.

Ong Bon Pagoda, or Nhi Phu Temple, transcends its role as a spiritual destination, serving as a testament to the cultural interplay between Hoa and Vietnamese traditions. The temple’s architecture bears strong imprints of Fujianese artistry, evident in the intricate stone and wood carvings that adorn its structure. It also stands as a symbol of the formation and development of the Fujianese Chinese community in ancient Saigon, enriching the city’s vibrant cultural tapestry.

The vibrant roof of Ong Bon Pagoda, adorned with ceramic sculptures and dragon motifs (Source: Collected)

Recognizing its importance, the Ministry of Culture, Sports, and Tourism bestowed upon Ong Bon Pagoda the status of an architectural and artistic relic on August 31, 1998. If you are interested in exploring this landmark, the temple welcomes visitors from 6:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.

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2. When was Nhi Phu Temple in Saigon built?

Ong Bon Pagoda, known as “Nhi Phu” (Two Prefectures), was established in Fujian, China, by two Chinese immigrant communities from the Tuyen Chau and Chuong Chau prefectures. They formed separate assembly halls, On Lang Assembly Hall for the Tuyen Chau group and Chuong Chau Assembly Hall (later renamed Ha Chuong Assembly Hall) for the Chuong Chau group.

While the exact construction date of the temple remains debated, historical remnants have shed light on the temple’s formative period. A preserved ancient bell within the temple bears the inscription “Nhi Phu Dai Ba Cong, At Dau trong thu cat dan…” Furthermore, the work “Co Gia Dinh phong canh vinh” (Ancient Gia Dinh Scenic Views), depicting Gia Dinh’s landscape from 1770 to 1815, mentions Ong Bon Pagoda. Additionally, a parallel couplet hanging in the main hall of Ha Chuong Assembly Hall (established after Ong Bon Pagoda) records the renovation year as Gia Khanh Ky Ty (1809). This confirms that Ong Bon Pagoda was constructed at the latest by the end of the 18th century.

Combining these pieces of evidence, it is plausible to conclude that the year engraved on the bell is 1765, coinciding with the temple’s establishment.

Traditional couplets with artistic calligraphy hang within Ong Bon Pagoda (Source: Collected)

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3. Outstanding features in the architecture of Ong Bon Temple

Since its establishment, the temple has undergone three major renovations: in 1875, 1901, and 1990. Despite these renovations, the temple has remarkably retained its ancient charm, evident in its architectural style and traditional decorations that reflect the cultural heritage of the Fujianese Chinese people.

3.1. Outside Ong Bon Temple

The temple grounds are around 2,500 square meters in size, with the courtyard taking up about half of the overall area. The ancestral halls, assembly hall headquarters, and heavenly courtyard make up the remainder of the space. The temple is designed like a timber-framed home with tiled roofs and brick walls. The front facade is made of stone slabs. The wooden frame is painted red and decorated with complex details such as lotus designs carved at the tops of the roof support beams, wooden unicorn figurines at the tops of the columns, and beautiful wooden carvings on the horizontal beam.

The temple roof features tube tiles and decorative ridges, creating a two-tiered roof with curved peaks resembling a dragon boat. Decorating the roof are ceramic sculptures depicting fish transforming into dragons, apricot blossoms, orchids, chrysanthemums, bamboo, dragons, phoenixes, and more, in vibrant colors. At the ridge ends of the roof, there is a sculpture of two dragons playing with a pearl. The dragon’s body is not elongated as commonly seen but rather stands almost upright, with its tail spreading high. 

The temple roof resembles a dragon boat (Source: Collected)

3.2. Inside Ong Bon Temple

The temple’s interior is simple yet solemn, with red-painted wooden columns, intricately carved stone pedestals, and one or two couplets hanging from each column. Many of these couplets are over 3 meters high and are curved to match the curvature of the columns. The horizontal lacquered boards are also decorated in various places. In total, there are 14 couplets and 30 horizontal lacquered boards, most of which were crafted between 1864 and 1901. The horizontal lacquered board and couplets feature carved borders, and inside, they are embossed with Chinese characters against a background of cloud dragons, waves, and other motifs. Besides praising the divine, they also hold artistic value in calligraphy and wood carving.

In the main hall, the altar of Ong Bon, also known as Phuc Duc Virtue, who is revered as the guardian deity of the land according to Chinese beliefs, is placed in the center. On either side of the altar, there are altars dedicated to Quang Trach, the god of prosperity, and Thai Tue, the household god. Alongside the celestial courtyard in front of the main hall, there are altars dedicated to Quan Thanh De Quan and Chua Sinh Nuong Nuong. In the rear hall, there are altars for Ngoc Hoang, the Great Emperor, the Buddha, and Guan Yin Bodhisattva. These deities and saints are represented with solemn wooden or plaster statues placed respectfully on the altars.

The revered altar of Ong Bon, a masterpiece of wood carving artistry (Source: Collected)

The most prominent feature is the altar of Ong Bon, crafted in 1894. Made of wood and coated with gold lacquer, the altar is adorned with intricate carvings depicting motifs such as twin dragons with a pearl and lotus flowers with phoenixes,… It is a masterpiece of wood carving art and a precious artifact of the temple. Additionally, there are other valuable artifacts such as a bronze bell cast in the year of At Dau (1765), a cast iron bell made in 1875, stone unicorn statues, incense burners, vases, horizontal lacquered boards, and couplets dating back to the late 19th century.

4. Annual festivals taking place at Ong Bon Temple

Every year, according to the lunar calendar, Nghi Phu Assembly Hall organizes several days of religious ceremonies that attract a large number of people to pay their respects. The two main festival days are the birth and death anniversaries of Ong Bon, which fall on the 15th day of the first lunar month and the 15th day of the eighth lunar month, respectively. On these days, the assembly hall hosts various cultural activities such as lion dance or dragon dance performances, traditional Phuoc Kien music performances, and more.

Religious ceremonies in Ong Bon Pagoda attract a large number of people (Source: Collected)

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5. Guide to visit Ong Bon Temple on your Ho Chi Minh City trip

5.1. How to get to Ong Bon Temple?

To reach Ong Bon temple, visitors can choose from the following transportation options:

• Personal vehicle: If traveling by motorbike or personal car, you can use Google Maps to find the most convenient and quickest route.
• Taxi: Opting for a taxi while in Saigon helps visitors reach their destination quickly. XANH SM taxis are a popular choice among travelers due to their high-quality vehicles, professional drivers, and reasonable fares.
• Bus: Some bus routes have stops near Ong Bon temple, which visitors can consider, such as routes 01, 07, 08, 56, and 91.

5.2. What to note while visiting?

Below are some essential notes to help visitors have a fulfilling experience when visiting Ong Bon Pagoda:

• Attire: Visitors should choose modest and respectful attire, avoiding overly revealing clothing when visiting the temple.
• Visiting hours: It’s important to know the opening and closing hours of the temple to ensure a complete visit.
• Respect the sacred space: Visitors should refrain from loud laughter or speaking too loudly, as it may disrupt the peaceful atmosphere of the temple and disturb other visitors.
• Maintain cleanliness: Help preserve the cleanliness of the temple grounds by disposing of trash in designated areas and avoiding littering.
• Follow temple regulations: Adhere to the temple’s rules and regulations regarding rituals, photography, etc., to fully experience the visit.

It is important to dress modestly and pay respect when visiting sacred sites like Ong Bon Pagoda (Source: Collected)

5.3. Where to visit near Ong Bon Temple?

Beyond the temple’s sacred grounds lies a tapestry of historical landmarks and vibrant cultural sites, each providing a glimpse into Saigon’s rich heritage.

• Thien Hau Pagoda: Thien Hau Pagoda is a sacred space in Vietnam dedicated to Thien Hau Thanh Mau, revered by the Chinese community. It is known by locals to be the place that owns the largest collection of coils in the city.
• Hai Nam Pagoda: The pagoda houses the Thien Hau Thanh Mau statue and hosts large ceremonial events on deity anniversaries. In 2001, it was recognized as a National Historical-Cultural Relic.
• House No. 5 Chau Van Liem Street: House No. 5 Chau Van Liem Street was recognized as a historical relic on November 16, 1988. This house is a memorial site for President Ho Chi Minh. It was where he stayed from September 1910 to June 1911 before departing for France. The relic site is open to visitors for exploration.
• China Town: “Cho Lon” (or Chinatown) refers to a vast area comprising District 5, District 6, District 10, and part of District 11 of Ho Chi Minh City. Exploring the unique charm of Saigon within the Chinatown area is a fascinating experience.

The historical House No. 5 Chau Van Liem Street, a memorial site of President Ho Chi Minh (Source: Collected)

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Touring Ong Bon Pagoda offers a remarkable voyage through Saigon’s cultural tapestry. The temple, with its elaborate architectural intricacies and spiritual rites, serves as a portal to comprehending the city’s rich legacy. By learning about its history and significance, visitors gain a better understanding of the cultural relevance of this beloved location. When planning your vacation to Saigon, be sure to include Ong Bon Pagoda on your itinerary to get a sense of the city’s character.

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